Pinky's: Diner Nouveau

Man, I love a good egg. I cook them a few times a week and I like to order them out, but they can be tricky for a restaurant to get right. After all, people are picky about their eggs (maybe because they're so easy to cook at home). I remember my brother's college roommate asking my mom to scramble his eggs so they could "bounce off the walls." Ew. I prefer my scrambles creamy. What about fried eggs: over easy or sunny-side up? Some folks don't even know the difference. Then there's poached...which brings me to Pinky's.

The Mississippi Maven and I headed to Pinky's Diner the other day to try out their breakfast. Pinky's on Bay to Bay in South Tampa is a cute breakfast and lunch joint with a reputation for being jammed. We got there around 10 on a weekday and landed a table but, living up to its rep, every table was taken the entire time we were there. Counter seating was scarce, too, and we got the feeling that everybody in the square-foot-challenged space was a regular.The clean-cut crowd ranged from a kid wearing a Jesuit High T-shirt who looked as if he just rolled out of bed, to a dad decked out in eye-popping, lime-green argyle-print pants, to a mom in teeny-weeny bike shorts. This place screams South Tampa, and I'm not saying that's a bad thing.

Unless you have totally absurd tastes, you can find something appealing to order off Pinky's menu. Choose the mundane egg breakfast if you aren't adventurous or amp things up with a frittata, pork belly bacon or oatmeal pancakes.The Maven was in the mood for Mexican and got an egg quesadilla consisting of eggs, ham, Cheddar and Provolone. Salsa and sour cream were accompaniments.

Bring your appetite for the Breakfast Quesadilla.

I would have tasted it but I got this gorgeous plate:

The Blackstone Benedict with rosemary home fries and fruit

One egg yolk gushed nicely but the other was cooked solid. Like I said, those eggs are devils to get right!  Poached eggs should ooze, and Pinky's knows it. Technical issue aside, when I bit into the bacon, grilled ham, spinach and tomato that were stacked beneath the eggs and homemade hollandaise, I forgave the glitch. Traditional English muffin halves were the base for this tasty Blackstone Benedict conglomeration, which was served with rosemary home fries and fresh fruit.

Known for its oatmeal pancakes, Pinky's offers them a la carte, so the Maven ordered one:

The Oatmeal Pancake. All hail the carbohydrate! Life is worth living.

Dusted with powdered sugar and a bit of butter, it was fluffy, savory and sweet. These fine specimens rate a return visit.

We ordered cafe con leche and a latte. The cafe con leche was too foamy. I had to slog through the foam to get to the coffee, resulting in a milk mustache. Pass. The Maven had a latte. I forgot to ask her how it was. Maybe she'll comment.  I'll stick with standard coffee next time.

Service was scattered. Our server was friendly but inattentive and the Maven had to get up and lasso him at the bar to get him to cash us out. We both would have liked a second cup of coffee but he never came around to ask.

Breakfast for two, including tip, was $36.

Verdict: It's Pinky's, not Stinky's

http://www.pinkysdiner.com/menu.pdf

Carmel Cafe and Wine Bar: A Shooting Star

How many times have you heard the assertion that 90 percent of restaurants fail in their first year? Well, I've got some news for you: According to a study done by Ohio State University's hospitality management program, that's a myth. Results of the study, published in 2007, found that about one in four restaurants close or change ownership within their first year of business.

Surprisingly, the nine-out-of-10 urban legend seems to have been perpetuated by none other than American Express in a 2003 TV spot featuring chef Rocco DeSpirito. According to Bloomberg Businessweek, Ohio State hospitality professor H.G. Parsa asked American Express where they got that number and the company had no clue. Uh oh!

One local restaurant that's beating the odds, whether accurate or inflated, is Carmel Cafe and Wine Bar. In fact, I'll wager it's destined for "chaindom," which is hardly surprising when you know who's behind it -- a restaurant success story himself, one of the Outback Steakhouse founders, Chris Sullivan. His savvy new group premiered the first Carmel Cafe in Clearwater in 2010, the second at this location in Carrollwood in 2011 and this year adds two more -- one which recently opened in Sarasota and another that will launch next month in South Tampa.

Is it any wonder this is a winning concept? Small plates offered at a good price point, mouthwatering beauty shots of all the menu items showcased on a user-friendly iPad, an interesting selection of modern Mediterranean entrees, nice pours from a wide array of wines, comfortably hip and delightfully lit decor...Everything is so tempting and enjoyable that before you know it, your guest check has ballooned. Ingenious!

Each table gets an iPad. We were given a printed menu too.

Carmel Cafe is especially fun for a group because many plates are geared for sharing and the iPad menu promotes an "I'll-order-this-if-you-order-that" mob mentality. One thing I want to point out: You set the pace of the meal, so if you initially order from the iPad everything you plan to eat, expect to see all of the courses crowding your table at one time. Nobody told us that bit of information when I first visited for lunch and the appetizers and salads appeared simultaneously because we ordered our whole meal in one full swoop. At dinner, our server explained that the diners set the pace. If you want to linger over your wine and nibble on your appetizer for 20 minutes, have at it. When you're ready for the next plate, reach for the iPad and tap in your choice.The order shoots to the kitchen and as soon as the dish is ready -- which is crazy fast -- it's brought to the table. Armed with that knowledge, we had a leisurely dinner that flowed flawlessly.

During my two visits, here are a few things I sampled:

Chickpea Fries with Tomato Jam and Curry Aioli
A little crispy and a little creamy. Sister Foodie and I liked these with the curry dip.

Pistachio Apricot Quinoa Couscous
This was unusual but not memorable.

Red and Yellow Roasted Beets with Goat Cheese, Watercress and Arugula
A very tasty lunch salad that I would repeat on another trip.

Pressed Angus Burger with Caramelized Onions and Chili Aioli
 A Hubmeister favorite! 

Spinach Gnocchi Marseille
Hard to go wrong with mussels, shrimp and scallops in a bouillabaisse broth.
 I could have done without the goop on the crouton but in general
the flavors were mighty fine.

The evening atmosphere attracts a more sophisticated crowd -- picture romantic-date-night 20s and 30s meets middle-aged-to-aging country clubbers who can knock back their fair share of vino.The night of our visit the bar area was buzzing but pleasant, packed mostly with people waiting for tables.

Some interior shots for your enjoyment:

Pretty is a pretty lame adjective, but here it suits.

Lots of wine. Mmmmm.....

Carmel Cafe is open for lunch and dinner and serves brunch on the weekend. Reservations are accepted for parties of six or more, but smaller parties can call ahead for preferred seating.

Verdict: Fun night out

http://www.carmelcafe.com/menu

Local Flavor: West Tampa Sandwich Shop

I discovered this place when Son of Hubmeister went to nearby Tampa Catholic High School. A  modest, stand-alone, homey establishment, West Tampa Sandwich Shop is on Armenia Ave. near MLK and it's easy to miss. The parking lot closest to the front door is always full but they have an overflow lot just south on Armenia. This is a quintessential Tampa haunt where you're just as likely to spy prominent local politicians as you are Spanish-speaking grandmas.

Yup, plastic covers are on the tables.  

This bustling place is on my list of culinary rarities I will miss if I ever move out of Tampa. The photos of family, friends and random diners papering the walls of the little house, the bizarre food-service carts rolled through the tiny dining area by ladies who look as if they've worked there for decades, the incessant grinding of coffee beans, the crowded, old-fashioned food counter overlooking women crafting Cuban sandwiches on bread that is 10 feet long, old Cuban guys meeting for a meal or simply getting a cup of Cuban coffee and reading the paper - it all adds to a certain retro Latin charm. I can best describe it as the Cuban version of the American diner.

Empty seats are uncommon. I was here at an off hour.

Breakfast and lunch are the meals I've enjoyed, but they serve dinner as well. I recommend the ropa vieja sandwich, but I usually can't resist ordering half a Cuban and a cup of black bean soup with a cafe con leche.

Half a Cuban and a cup of soup: Find a better meal for $5.50!

The Cuban sandwich offered here doesn't get enough media attention. It's one of the best in the city.

With prices so affordable, I don't know how they make a profit, but after 30 years in business, I think they've got it figured out. And the people watching is free!

Just a note: After a visit to WTSS, head south on Armenia to Cacciatore Bros., a family-run Italian market and butcher shop that also stocks Spanish products. Be sure to take home some homemade sausage. They also have terrific olive salad in their deli area.


Verdict: Local favorite

http://www.westtampasandwichshop.com/

Finding Faves at Dockside Dave's

Holy rhymes and alliteration, Batman, my blog break is over!

What brought me back?

I needed a nudge, I needed inspiration, I needed....a fried grouper sandwich and onion rings at Dockside Dave's on St. Pete Beach!

I feel compelled to share my half-pound black grouper bonanza with the food-following public. That, and to shout out a new Totally Tasty Find:  Dockside Dave's onion rings!

Let's begin with those sweet vegetables of shame, shall we? They were sliced thick, dipped in a fairly light batter that was seasoned to salt and peppery perfection, and then fried to a golden crisp. Sure, there was some grease left behind on the tissue paper in the basket. Who cares? These babies rank among the best onion rings I have ever eaten. You know when you bite into an onion ring and the strand of onion sometimes disengages from the batter and all you're left with is a greasy, empty shell and chin-singeing onion trailing from your mouth? That doesn't happen here.What you bite into is what you get. No flesh-scorching facial surprises.Try them dipped in the horseradish sauce that is brought to your table. Yowza! I would return for a basket of those alone (along with the ice-cold Michelob I downed).

But, wait! This meal is just beginning. First of all, Hubmeister hilariously asked our amusing T-shirt-and-shorts-clad server if they had fish sandwiches, to which she flatly replied, "Nobody feels like reading today." Amen. She was a hoot.They sure as hell didn't feel like listening, either. On our way to the little beachside hangout, I explained to my loving husband that sampling the made-famous-by-Southern-Living grouper sandwich was the whole point of this mission. In addition, this beach dive features the hallowed fish sandwich at the top of its menu and states six different ways you can have it prepared, thus the waitress' comment about reading the menu. Earth to Hubmeister!

So, the Southern Living magazine article is hanging on the wall facing me and I can't wait to see if this sandwich beats out the best grouper sandwich in the Bay area (and possibly anywhere on the planet), which, in my opinion, is the beautiful beast served up by Frenchy's in Clearwater. (See my blog post: "Totally Tasty Find: Frenchy's Super Grouper Sandwich.")

Funny Waitress (and I call her waitress because she is old enough to be cool enough not to be insulted by the term waitress) told us that the beer-battered version is Dockside Dave's signature item, so Hubs and I ordered that preparation, while Son of Hubs opted for the blackened technique.The server also recommended that we scale down the sides because the fish portions are big. I believe she meant GARGANTUAN! A half-pound of fried grouper was placed before me, twice the size of the cornmeal-dusted bun it crowned, and I knew immediately I would be ditching the bread.

The grouper fillet spanned the length of the basket. Can you find the bun? It's there!

The grouper - fresh, mild and moist - was the heavenly star of the show. If you can manage to eat it sandwich-style, which Hubs and Son did, you can top it with the fresh slice of tomato, onion, pickle and romaine lettuce leaf that are served alongside the fish. The sandwich comes solo and is market price, which was $12.95.

In our blissful ignorance, we ordered small baskets of onion rings and waffle fries for the table. FYI - the adjective "small" is an understatement.They might be considered small to giants.The fries were totally wasted and it's a shame because they were piping hot and brought to the table by a guy from the kitchen who obviously didn't want them wilting under a heat lamp, indicative that the people here care about food quality. Nevertheless, we had no room for fries as we were practically morphing into fish and swimming out the door by the time we left. Note to self: When dining at Dockside Dave's remember the old adage, your eyes are bigger than your stomach.

Despite our grouper afterglow, Hubs and I still place Frenchy's fish sandwich as winner by a nose. For me, it's mainly because I can manage Frenchy's rendition as an actual sandwich; and for Hubs, because Frenchy's version comes topped with melted cheese. By the way, you can order cheese on your sandwich at Dockside Dave's, and Dave's batter is crispier than Frenchy's, if you happen to prefer it that way.

All told, if you are in the area and feel like some bodacious onion rings and a monstrous portion of fresh seafood, don't hesitate to visit the cheesy (and greasy) Gilligan's Island atmosphere and wiseass waitresses at Dockside Dave's.

Verdict: Greasy thumbs up...and postworthy!

www.docksidedavesgrill.com/menu.html

Red Mesa on Fourth: One Fine Table

Finally finished all my NYC posts and I am back on Tampa turf.  Shortly after my trip, Sister Foodie came to town.  Well, you know we've had some disappointing meals in the ol' Bay area.  On a mission to break this losing streak, I took her across the Howard Frankland to Red Mesa in St. Pete. 

I had never been to this Fourth Street Mexican eatery but had heard good things.  A little background check revealed this restaurant has two locations.  Although the newer downtown St. Pete cantina looks more colorful, with its lively outdoor courtyard and spiffy Latin-influenced interior, I heard the food is solid at the original.  It was.

We ordered a couple of Dos Equis and asked the waitress if the calamari was fresh.  After the Irish calamari calamity in New York, I wasn't taking any chances on freezer squid.  She said it wasn't frozen, so we ventured in that direction. 




Calamari Frito

Coated in a light, tasty batter, the Calamari Frito was tender and tasted fresh.  The two dipping sauces that came with it -- one a habanero and the other a chipotle chili aioli --  provided a welcome Mexican spin and a break from the usual squirt of lemon. The habanero mixture was a sinus-draining concoction that Sister F. and I loved.  The smokey aioli was good, too.

For the lunch mains, Sister selected a burrito and I stuck with the seafood theme with Shrimp Salteado.  This Mexican plate was a mouthwatering preparation of sauteed shrimp with rajas (a saute of chiles and onions), Spanish chorizo, tomatoes, mushrooms and potatoes, all cooked with a splash of sherry and finished with pasilla chile sauce.  Thanks to the diverse population living in the Tampa area, I count my lucky stars for having the good fortune to discover this type of authentic Mexican cuisine.  I doubt whether I'll ever be able to stomach Tex-Mex again.  Chock-full of spicy sausage flavor, mild chile heat, a fresh collaboration of vegetables and succulent shrimp, this dish was fantastic.  The saute was accompanied by a satisfying helping of black beans and rice.

As she devoured an enormous, flavor-packed burrito (also plated with black beans and rice), Sister Foodie forgot our poor history of Bay-area dining.  Mission accomplished.

Red Mesa would be a welcome addition to any neighborhood; I wish it would cross the bay to mine.  This location features a comfortable, casual atmosphere.  Two connected dining rooms offer booth or table seating and a small bar is available, too.  The prices are totally affordable and the weighty lunch and dinner menus would keep me coming back for eons.  Due to my New Tampa location, I won't be visiting as often as I'd like, but this restaurant's dizzying selection of soups, salads, appetizers, Mexican plates, burritos, enchiladas, tacos, wraps, sandwiches and house specialties will definitely lure me across the HF more often.  I can't wait to try the dinner menu, which is equally tempting and more refined than burritos and enchiladas. 

Verdict:  Ole! 

http://www.redmesarestaurant.com/welcome.html

The Big Apple Bites: Leftovers

Tir Na Nog

So Frommer's said Tir Na Nog was among the best Irish pubs in New York City.  Just so happened this Midtown watering hole was a few blocks from our hotel, so off we went to hoist a few pints and grab some grub.

The place certainly captures the friendly feel of a well-worn European pub but on a much grander scale.  There's a bar, of course, but there are also three distinct dining rooms decorated with vintage furniture and other antiquated treasures that the owners extracted from Irish churches and castles and then shipped to New York.  Warmed by rich woods and earthy colors, the dimly lit rooms are teeming with Celtic charm. 

We were seated in the Cathedral room, named for the long pew of regal seats abutting the wall.  This room views the bar, which is where I actually longed to be perched due to the extremely uncomfortable church seating.  No slouching allowed in church!  My back was forced into a stick-straight position, propped against a hard, albeit beautifully carved, wooden chair back that was surely perfect for a bishop doing penance. The motto here should be Drink Up and Sin No More!  After a long day of travel and schlepping around the city, I wanted comfort -- and beer. 

Oh happy day, that beer was good!  We decided to get some snacks to go with them and our friendly Irish server obliged with a bar menu.  I often ask servers if there's a standout menu item, which I did here, and was told that many patrons enjoy the sausage rolls.  We shared an order of those and a plate of calamari. 

Calamari is a downfall of mine and I obviously was delirious when I ordered it at an Irish pub.  It was supposedly lightly dusted in panko and fried.  Come on, the description should have read:  Straight out of a freezer bag, compliments of our restaurant's generic-food supplier.  Every ringlet was exactly the same size, which was the width and circumference of a ring you'd put on your finger.  That was some emaciated squid!  And absolutely no spidery pieces, which are my favorite parts, were anywhere on the plate. This dish earns the dubious distinction of the worst calamari I have ever ordered.  (That award once belonged to a Peachtree City, Ga., Carrabba's and a rubbery batch that could have been used to make tires.)

The sausage rolls were cocktail weinies, pure and simple, but in sausage form, not the hot dog variety.  Sure, they were good.  Who doesn't like a juicy, salty pork-fat product dipped into mustard to enhance their beer-drinking experience?  I know I do, but not enough to trust the dinner menu.

Although this Old-Worldy establishment is lovely to behold and an interesting place to throw back a Guinness or three, the bar food (and those seats) sent us packing on a journey to find another restaurant for dinner. 

http://www.tirnanognyc.com/






Heartland Brewery

That's how we ended up at Heartland Brewery near Times Square.  We were in beer-drinking mode now, and after wandering aimlessly looking for a non-touristy place to eat, we landed in a booth at just such a place:  a touristy, chain-reeking microbrewery.  More good beer, mediocre food.  One review I read after eating there said it is a step above T.G.I. Friday's and that's exactly how I would describe it, which is why I stuck with a burger and fries.  They were fine but forgettable.  That pretty much sums it up. 

This is a reasonable spot to grab a burger and a decent beer, but don't expect anything more than chain fare.  You get what you pay for.  With six locations throughout the city, this American pub appears popular with the 20-something set. 

This day's restaurant outings -- the museum, the bar and the brew chain -- prompted a speedy purchase the following day of Zagat's New York City Restaurants 2011.  No more stumbling into random places for me.  By the way, Petrie Court Cafe at the museum and Tir Na Nog didn't make the book, and Heartland Brewery got a 14 for food, which lands them in the "fair to good" range.  As a point of reference, Zagat's top score is 30.


http://www.heartlandbrewery.com/Times_Square.php

The Big Apple Bites: Le Barricou, Brooklyn

Never order "the special." 

How many times have I heard Hubmeister utter that sage advice?  Several years and culinary letdowns later, I finally listened to him.  

Commonly known to people who have worked in restaurants, "the special" evolves from leftover or surplus ingredients the chef doesn't want to pitch, or it's a creative experiment that's being tested and tweaked before landing on the main menu.  When you take the plunge into "the special" pool, you might sink or you might swim.  And you might ask yourself, "Do I feel lucky tonight?" 

Unfortunately for Daughtress, she drowned in disappointment on our dinner visit to Le Barricou in Brooklyn. 

Daughtress currently lives in Brooklyn and wanted to give us a tour of the local scene in Williamsburg, so we ventured out of Manhattan.  Taking out my trusty Zagat Guide to New York City Restaurants, I flipped to Brooklyn and chose this French spot, which earned "very good to excellent" scores for food and decor, and also seemed reasonably priced.

Lest you be put off by my bold introduction, allow me to interject that I really liked this place.  The ambiance was charming and intimate, offering a romantic setting for couples -- and we saw lots of them.  A few candlelit tables were located outside the entrance, but because of the heat, everyone chose to dine indoors. Occupying a long, narrow space in a row of aging urban storefronts on Grand St., this cozy French bistro features a front room with a pretty dark-wood bar on one side and a smattering of tables on the other, and an adjacent dining area that stretches toward the back of the building. 

Ours was not the best table because we were sandwiched in a corner between the bar and the front window, and the wait staff had trouble serving us.  We ordered a bottle of Macon-Lugny white Burgundy, and Hubmeister was charged with putting it on ice and refilling glasses because the servers couldn't get to the bucket.  It was also uncomfortably warm inside, but I'll cut them some slack because the city was experiencing temperatures that I imagine might be found in Hell.

The oppressive heat was probably what drove Daughtress to select not one, but two specials:  a cold Cucumber Soup and a salad of Grilled Watermelon on Mixed Greens.  The soup was passable but a bowl of it was overkill, and the salad was a disaster.  The taste was off balance and she barely touched it.  The watermelon was devoid of sweetness, so any type of sweet and salty flavor contrast was missing.  The fruit possessed an unpleasant char and the dressing contained a mysterious ingredient that everyone at the table disliked.  It was a choppy night in the Sea of Specials, as Daughtress tried to stay afloat by sharing her parents' entrees. 

Hubmeister ordered a tasty and creamy Vegetable Risotto that he enjoyed, but I confess that I am the only family member who enthusiastically recommends trying this place.  I apparently made the best choice:  Coq au Vin.  Chicken falling off the bone and luxuriating in a delectable red-wine sauce was served over a heaping serving of some of the best mashed potatoes I have had anywhere.  The whole dish tasted as if it were lovingly prepared by a French grandmere.  This was comfort food defined, a perfect stew to order when there's a chill in the air. 

Pre-entree, both Hubs and I ordered house salads of mesclun dressed with Dijon vinaigrette, and they were fresh, bright and clean-the-plate good. We also reached a few times for the bread basket, which consisted of lovely baguette slices.

I would return to Le Barricou, but I am a sucker for rich, slowly cooked French food and an authentic Parisian bistro atmosphere.  Hubs could take or leave this place, but, really, how many vegetable risotto entrees are going to knock your socks off?

Will Daughtress give Le Barricou another try?  Probably not. 

Will she order off the standard menu from now on?  Do kids ever listen to their parents? 

Note:  No charge cards accepted but ATM on site.

Verdict:  Inviting neighborhood cafe.  Stick to the tried and true dishes.


http://lebarricouny.com/menus/menu_011909.pdf













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