Belly Up to the Bar at Sushi Tsu

Perched at the bar sloshing down a ginormous, frosty Sapporo, I chatted with Hubmeister about my top 10 favorite movies.

It was Friday night at the sushi bar.  The chefs were busy creating roll after roll, going about their exacting business as kimono-clad servers barked orders, two gay guys next to us sat scooping up rainbow rolls, and the post-workweek celebration had begun for a couple of professional types getting blitzed across the bar. 

When Hubmeister and I go to Sushi Tsu, we sit at the bar because he likes it there.  It's not that the restaurant doesn't look inviting - with its warm red and gold hues and a choice of either teppanyaki or standard dining tables - there's just something intriguing about eating at the bar. 

We are certainly not there to converse with the chefs, whose accents are so strong that when our chef presented one of the rolls, I looked confused enough that he gave up repeating himself, picked up the sushi menu and pointed out which one it was.  Oh, Philly roll!

That was part of Hubmeister's order.  I had a crunchy, spicy tuna roll and a spider (soft-shell crab) roll.  Hub loves the ice-cold house salad with the tangy ginger dressing, so he had that as well, and we split an order of gyoza.  The tender, meat-filled dumplings were fabulous and I could eat several orders of them and call that my entire meal.  They had a pan-fried crispy sear on one side and a steamed soft exterior on the other, and the accompanying salty dipping sauce made them as irresistibly dunkable as donuts into coffee. 

One thing is apparent when you dine at the bar and that is the just-reeled-in freshness of the fish.  It looked gorgeous laid out in front of us in its icy bed.  The squid glistened, its little suction cups looking as if they might still muster a mean grip.  The white fish, salmon and tuna practically sparkled.  What a difference from the ashen, "previously frozen" supermarket fare.  My rolls were scrumptious, crunchy as promised, lending a great textural contrast to the slightly warm and pliable sushi rice.

Perhaps the fun of sitting at the bar lies in its communal nature, where people from all walks of life share a common pleasure.  A melting pot of humanity comes together to appreciate the chefs and delight in their edible art.  It's a place to discuss carefree topics like your favorite movies, a happy spot to relax and expand your culinary horizons. 

Restaurant Info:                                                               
Sushi Tsu Japanese Steakhouse & Sushi Bar
15363 Amberly Drive
Tampa
813-910-9404
http://www.sushitsu.com/

Falafel Find: Byblos Pitas

One of my favorite bloggers in Atlanta, The Blissful Glutton (http://www.blissfulglutton.com/), got me in the mood for falafel.  Blissful takes awesome pictures and she recently posted an article about a pita place she loves in the ATL.  Her photos of falafel and other Middle-Eastern delights made my mouth water. 

Unlike the Glutton, I am neither an adept photographer nor a falafel expert.  The first time I tried the fried chick pea concoction was in London, where almost every streetside restaurant claimed to have THE BEST falafel.  The Food and Loathing family looked at each other and wondered, "What the heck is falafel?" 

Outside the British Museum at a fascinatingly unfriendly little restaurant - you read it right, I said unfriendly, as in these people were mad at the world - I ordered it.  And it was okay.  Probably should have gone across the street to the other guy who claimed his was the best falafel in all the land.  Unlike the Falafel Commando, the competition might have offered a greeting, forced a smile or feigned customer appreciation.  Picture the Soup Nazi on "Seinfeld."

After reading Blissful's blog, I decided to order a falafel appetizer the other night at Acropolis.  Again, I was unimpressed; it was passable but lacked something. 

Yesterday, it was time to do some comparison shopping.  Maybe falafel is not my thing.  I stopped by Byblos Pitas near USF. 

Thank you, Byblos.  I knew I would like falafel.  These were loaded with garlic and parsley flavor and included a spicy kick.  Maybe ground red pepper?  The patties were fried to a golden crisp and stuffed into a pita with my choice of toppings.
 

I asked the guy at the counter to suggest toppings because they have several sauces, dips, veggies and pickles displayed.  I figure the folks who make this stuff every day know which flavor combinations work well.  I ended up with really fresh cucumbers, lettuce, tomatoes and onions drizzled with a ladle of tzatziki sauce (my request).  The college kid helping me was pleasant and patiently answered all of my questions.

This is a quick-bite or takeout type of place with a bright and cheery atmosphere.  A full menu of Mediterranean-inspired pita choices is available, as well as soups and salads.

Cost:  $5
Verdict:  I'll be back.

Restaurant Info:
Byblos Pitas
2734 University Square Drive
Tampa
813-849-5050
http://www.byblospitas.com/

Zagat Reveals Tampa's Top Restaurants

By now you know that I'm a fan of the Zagat ratings, so it won't come as a big surprise when I tell you how psyched I was yesterday to read in Jeff Houck's Tampa Trib food blog that he had possession of Zagat's America's Top Restaurants 2011.  It features diner ratings and reviews of over 1,500 of the top restaurants around the country, and Jeff, the Trib's food editor, was none too happy with some of the restaurant omissions in the Bay area.

The big surprise to me was that Donatello beat Armani's for a place in the top 10.  We dined at Donatello a few times - over 15 years ago - and it was very good, but we haven't thought about the place since moving back.  It is sort of a forgotten landmark on S. Dale Mabry.  Nobody in the area ever mentions it anymore, but I bet they will now.   Armani's did, however, make the list of recommended establishments. 

Then, of course, there's Bern's and Mise en Place.  I've dined at Bern's a few times, but again, years ago.  Mise en Place was a wonderful anniversary destination a couple of years back.  It's been around a long time and manages to stay innovative; I'm glad to see its name on the list.  Pane Rustica, which I reviewed here, also made the top 10.  Awesome!   Roy's and Capital Grille, both upscale chains, round out the Tampa spots listed. 

Is it fair to include the chains?  I don't know.  Are they among the top restaurants in Tampa?  If so, then it's fair.  What does it say about the food scene in Tampa when Bonefish Grill joins Armani's and SideBern's on the list of "noteworthy restaurants?"  Good for the locally based OSI corporation for getting them there, but I'm shaking my head at that one.  Where is the creativity?  Bang Bang Shrimp is the same here as it is anywhere else.  Is this list representative of the best we have to offer?  I think not.   

See Jeff's blog, The Stew, for the complete list, which also includes a few Sarasota and Clearwater eateries, and for his commentary about who's missing.
http://www.tboblogs.com/index.php/life/comments/zagat-names-tampa-bays-americas-top-restaurants-for-2011-uh-i-think-you-mis/

Go Here: Pane Rustica

I subscribed to the Zagat Report before moving to Tampa, but I didn't see the point in renewing my online subscription when so few restaurants here managed to achieve over-the-top ratings.  Among the select few garnering high scores when I canceled my subscription three years ago were Armani's, Pelagio Trattoria and Pane Rustica.  We went to Armani's for our anniversary in '07 and it didn't disappoint, but when you drop a whopping $400 on dinner, it better not.  Alas, those were pre-recession days.  Notice the reviews you see here are for restaurants in the affordable range.  Sadly, I have never made it to Pelagio Trattoria and now the acclaimed chef is moving on to the Four Seasons in St. Louis.  That leaves Pane Rustica (pronounced pahn-ay roos-ti-ka).  

The first time I visited this South Tampa strip-center eatery was a few years ago, when a friend and I met for breakfast.  Unbeknownst to me when I suggested the place, it doesn't serve a full breakfast but offers coffee drinks and baked goods.  Two other times when I would have popped in, it was closed.  Guess those were Mondays.  Finally, a couple weeks ago when I stopped by for lunch, my timing was right.  The place was packed at 1:30, as I stepped up to the counter to see what was what. 

Pane Rustica has changed in the last three years.  Yes, there is still the place-your-order and pay-at-the-register counter service; displays of pastries, cupcakes, cookies, and croissants; and bread racks beckoning you to tote a loaf home.  But now there is an additional area of the restaurant, complete with a circular bar surrounded by booths and tables.  They have expanded.   

I had heard good things about the dinner menu but always thought it strange that one would order a $20 entree at a counter.  Now the place gives you a choice.  Half the space - the expansion side - is table service, and the original half remains counter service.  Since there isn't a hostess, it's not clear what to do when you first walk in.  I was the only confused person around so I figure it attracts a crowd of South Tampa regulars and business folks.  

I pretended to know what I was doing and joined the line, surveying the pretty pastries and prepared pizzas.   After glancing at the chalkboard specials, I mulled over a paper menu that I picked up off the counter.   I remembered from my continental breakfast and the previous Zagat review that the bread is outstanding.   A sandwich was my inevitable selection.  I ordered the roasted vegetable sandwich, chose my weapon of choice in the bread department - rustic Italian - and told the woman at the register that, yes, I would like my sandwich to be hot.  She mentioned that it is usually served cold and she offered to make it to my liking.  Nice.

I plopped myself down on a long cushioned bench with tables dotted in front of it.  The tables are a bit tight along the bench, so choose another location if you are saying anything top secret or if you like additional personal space.  On the counter-service side, where I was, you prop a sign on the table to signal to the runner which order is yours. 

My sandwich arrived hot and gorgeous, accompanied by roasted red potatoes, which are served cold.  I can't get excited about roasted potatoes since I make them all the time, but the sandwich was spectacular.  I savored every mouthful of eggplant, red pepper, zucchini and herbed goat cheese, warmed beautifully on the best bread I have eaten this side of Bread Garden in Atlanta.  The sandwich was dressed with a basil aioli that totally completed the superb confluence of flavors. 

The bustling atmosphere is conducive to dining alone, which I normally avoid like the plague.  But I didn't mind it here, and when I remarked to the man next to me how delicious the food was, he said he dines there at least three times a week.  Armed with that knowledge, I wasn't about to let him go back to his novel.  He raved about everything, especially the pizza.  He also indicated a dish popular with the lunchtime crowd is chicken salad cradled in an acorn squash.  Intriguing.  Sounds like I'll be back this fall.

I told him I was surprised that no one was tipping the food runners, who happily checked on me and refilled my refreshing raspberry tea, offering to put it in a to-go cup since I was leaving.  He said patrons tip at the counter, which I always do anyway when I see a tip jar, and the employees split the pot.  On my way out, I threw in some additional "bread" of my own and bought a loaf of  "pane rustica" (rustic bread) to take home. 

Because I like to visit a restaurant a couple times before I start blogging about it, I returned yesterday with Hubmeister, who was primed to emerge from his dining-out doldrums.   I grabbed a raspberry tea at the counter and a table at 11:45.  By noon, the place was filling up fast.  Seated on the table-service side this time, I noted laminated menus and a printout of specials placed on each table.  A couple of women were seated at the bar and the bartender was waiting tables.  Since you've now got the lay of the land, I'll cut to the food.

We ordered off the specials menu, which included a wide assortment of innovative salads, sandwiches and entrees.  One entree was called "Shut up and eat!  Don't ask, you'll love it!" and I was tempted by the mystery, but I ordered the Marsala-grilled portobello mushroom topped with tomatoes, arugula and grilled red onions.  The douse of flavorful Gorgonzola and herb aioli convinced me that careful attention to sauces and spreads - not to mention the bread - are helping set this place apart.  My rustic Italian bread was toasty and buttery.  The ho-hum cold roasted potatoes and an olive came alongside the sandwich.

Hubmeister ordered an entree described as pear and cheese fiocchi, blackened chicken, cranberries, shallots, arugula, toasted garlic and Madeira brown butter.  This selection shot him out of the recesses of the dining trenches.  He didn't converse much at this meal, except for raving about his lunch, as he gorged himself with his newfound friend - fiocchi.  He showed his love for me, however, by parting with some of that fiocchi and chicken.

Fiocchi, which was completely foreign to me, are cute little ruffly pouches of pasta.  These contained ricotta and some other cheeses that imparted a sweetness from the pear.   In contrast, the blackened chicken was salty and spicy.  The fiocchi and chicken were served atop arugula swimming in a sinful pool of brown butter, cranberries, shallots and slices of toasted garlic.  The roll, at the top of the photo, came in handy for sopping it all up.  All I can say is, "Wow!"  This was 12 bucks well spent.   FYI, my sandwich was $9.  Our total bill for this stellar meal, including tax and tip, was around $30.  

Not one to pass up phenomenal crispy-crust breads - there are nine or 10 varieties from which to choose - I bought a loaf to go and a croissant for the teenager at school.  Unfortunately for him, he waited too long to eat it and, winning no mother-of-the-year award for this gluttonous act, I confess I just ate it.  Could you pass up a flaky croissant, knowing it was filled with almond pastry cream?  (I'll get him another one.)

In my experience, Zagat is pretty reliable when it comes to rating restaurants.  In this case, it was spot on.  With any luck, Tampa's culinary world will expand and more restaurants will warrant outstanding Zagat ratings.  Maybe I'll renew my subscription after all.

Restaurant Info:
Pane Rustica Bakery & Cafe
3225 South MacDill Avenue, Suite 119
Tampa
813-902-8828
http://www.panerusticabakery.com/

Real Jersey Subs at Subport

With all the hoopla surrounding "The Real Housewives of New Jersey" and the cast of clowns from "Jersey Shore," it's almost embarrassing to admit that I spent many summers of my childhood vacationing in New Jersey.  Unlike the scripted scenes enacted by classless degenerates in these lame shows, my Jersey experience included playing miniature golf and riding my bike to the boardwalk, five-and-ten, and Tasty Freeze, all neatly situated in the wholesome beach community of Avalon.

Among my fondest Jersey food memories are La Rosa's subs.  Although I was just a little kid, I still remember how excited my brothers and sisters and I got when my parents brought home those Italian torpedoes of goodness.  It explains why I now feel compelled to try any sandwich shop proclaiming to serve them.  

I did just that on a recent visit to Subport.  Although I passed this place on numerous occasions, I never managed to stop - until last weekend. 

Talk about hitting the nail on the head, these subs were just as I remember.  To me, the defining ingredient in a Jersey sub are the onions.  Sliced extremely thin, they are soft and pliable with a subtle flavor and slight bite.  Their natural flavor gets a boost with the sub's second distinguishing feature:  a simple dressing of olive oil and a splash of red wine vinegar.  That's it.  Neither mayonnaise nor mustard should mask the taste of the freshly sliced cold cuts, provolone, tomato and shredded lettuce.  Seasonings are limited to salt, pepper and oregano.  The bread, also key, is soft on the outside yet still chewy inside.

Ordered "all the way," my Number 5 sub had all the right stuff, and giant is not an exaggeration.  This is half a sub, cut in half  (sorry about the bites - couldn't help myself!).  The Giant Jersey version is 16 inches long.

According to the owner I spoke with, the outstanding bread is baked fresh at a local bakery, and the cold cuts are ordered from the same vendors they have used for 30 years - roast beef from Philadelphia and hams from Massachusetts.  She said the founder -- her partner -- is a USF graduate who opened the original Subport in 1979 near USF.  He saw a need for a sub shop like those he frequented while living in New Jersey.  As the neighborhood around USF deteriorated, he eventually moved the business to its current Carrollwood strip mall location at the corner of Ehrlich Road and Dale Mabry Highway.

Quirky and comfortable, this mom-and-pop sandwich shop is peppered with an eclectic mix of newspaper clippings, nautical accents and personal collections.  The deli cases and stacks of newspapers and magazines scattered about remind me of a neighborhood bagel shop, a perfect dine-alone spot for a cheap, quick bite.  They also sell ice cream and, for whatever reason, bagged ice.  What a find!

Restaurant Info:
Subport
14932 N. Dale Mabry Highway
Tampa
813-962-5958

Sushi Fix: Sushi Tsu

When my husband and son took off for a sports tournament last weekend, I found myself calling for takeout. Knowing I should give other sushi restaurants a chance, I couldn't resist phoning Sushi Tsu in New Tampa. Like watching old episodes of "Seinfeld," you know it will always be good.

Sushi Tsu never disappoints. We have dined at the bar a couple of times and brought takeout home on several occasions, including a huge spread for a day-after-Thanksgiving extravaganza two years running. I hadn't been there in a while and was surprised to see some refreshing changes to the interior. They have painted and moved things around a bit, relocating the hostess station and making the entrance more welcoming. They also are revamping the sushi menu, and when I requested one, the hostess said it was so new that the prices weren't on it yet. She presented me with a list that includes more than a dozen new creations, including the intriguing sweet potato and banana split rolls.

I ordered the spicy, crunchy tuna roll (above, top) and the dynamite roll, both listed as house specialties. The tuna roll, consisting of spicy tuna, tempura chips and smelt roe, delivered a fresh, crunchy bite. The dynamite roll was a rich mouthful of avocado, cucumber, scallion, onion, conch and salmon baked with spicy cream sauce. Aptly named, the dynamite roll exploded with flavor. The rice in both rolls tasted exceptionally fresh and was just above room temperature, which I found lovely, but I guess many debate the correct temperature for sushi rice.

The only bad part of this meal was watching it disappear as I wolfed down every tasty morsel. While I relished each bite and pondered the exacting skill required of a sushi chef, I vowed to stop for sushi more often. Let me know your favorite Tampa sushi hangout.

Restaurant Info:

Sushi Tsu Japanese Steakhouse & Sushi Bar

15363 Amberly Drive

Tampa, FL

813-910-9404

http://www.sushitsu.com/