The Big Apple Bites: Eataly

Where do I begin
To tell the story of how great the food can be,
The sweet love story that is older than the sea,
The simple truth about the weight it put on me...
Where do I start?

Forget the first hello! How about with last weekend's trip to New York City and the 4 pounds I piled on.

Daughtress is interning in Manhattan this summer and Hubmeister and I decided to swoop down on her for a visit. Hubs grew up on Long Island and I had been to NYC on a few occasions, so it wasn't virgin territory. What was new to us was vacationing in triple-digit temperatures. I don't know why I packed any makeup because it melted off my face. Leave it to us to leave an area known for sweltering temps for one that is even hotter. But the food (and seeing the lovely Daughtress, of course) were worth it. Here's a taste of one our dining excursions...

Eataly
I posted about this Mario Batali-backed food emporium last year when it opened. The concept seems to have taken off because this place is a friggin' Italian madhouse.

Picture a grand food court. Noisy atmosphere. Crush of people. It's a scene you would expect to find at noon in most malls in America during the Christmas shopping season. The difference here is that the coffee shop features Lavazza, not Starbucks; the frozen treats are gelato, not ice cream; the baked goods are cannolis, not tollhouse cookies; and the food looks really topnotch, not like greasy mall grub.  

Interspersed with counter-service offerings are several sit-down Italian restaurants, many with bar seating overlooking the cooking areas, and each featuring a specialty such as seafood, pasta, pizza, vegetables, meat, you name it. 

The dining setup is confusing to the uninitiated, due in part to the lack of defined space for each restaurant, creating a free-for-all atmosphere. The absence of enclosed spaces, and no clear directions about where to go or what to do to get a table, produce an air of chaos and confusion. We wandered around and saw what looked like a hostess station at one of the eateries, so we figured we weren't supposed to plop down at any open table. But we did see several other folks committing this faux pas, totally unaware of it until they were asked to remove their keisters from the recycled plastic chairs and put their names in at the appropriate hostess station. Embarrassing. As we dined, people were stumbling haphazardly into the restaurant space, with one brazen lady approaching our table and asking to see my menu. What the heck! Did she think she was in Fort Lauderdale?

After we checked in with a not-so-friendly hostess, whose greeting consisted of "name, how many?", we waited an hour for a table. If you like roaming around with huge crowds of people, you won't mind the fact that there are no waiting areas. By chance, we happened upon a few chairs stacked near a window and tried to remain inconspicuous sitting beside a group of extra highchairs.

While I am "loathing," here's another bugaboo:  The hostess doesn't call your name when a table is ready or give you a buzzer -- she tells you to keep checking in with her. This procedure is totally stupid and a royal pain, especially when the line at the hostess stand is always 15-people deep and pushing your way through the sweat-drenched masses is not on Frommer's list of Top Ten Things to Do in New York City.

Okay, enough about the atmosphere and operational snafus. You know not to expect cushy environs or serenity. The food, however, was worth these annoyances. (Read:  You must be a foodie to put up with this crap.)

We chose the pizza and pasta eatery, where I saw Neapolitan pizzas (go elsewhere if you are looking for Brooklyn-style New York pizzas) landing on tables right and left.

If Mario and partners Lidia and Joe Bastianich are putting their stamps of approval on the pizza recipes, you know they've got to be good. And mine was. Simple and satisfying, the Pizza Margherita had a crispy crust and no trace of sogginess. The few quality ingredients -- tomato sauce, mozzarella, basil and dough -- gelled harmoniously, none overpowering the others. Fresh and simple ingredients topped the thin and delightfully blistered crust. The only herb in this pizza was a sprig of fresh basil, and the pie was absolutely delicious. My minor criticism is evident in the photo below, which screams, "More cheese, please!"

Daughtress and Hubmeister both ordered a pasta dish of ravioli stuffed with meat, then tossed with butter. You could really taste the veal in this dish and appreciate the freshness of the handmade pasta, which came in the shape of petite squares. The waiter indicated menu items that featured homemade pasta because not all dishes do. Portions were adequate -- not overwhelming -- and my dining companions had no trouble downing slices of my pizza while cleaning their own plates.

The only accompaniment with our orders was a basket of fabulous Italian bread and plain olive oil for dipping. Again, simple and flavorful. You don't need to add a ton of seasonings to good olive oil. This Italian oil was fruity and tasty enough to stand on its own.

A limited beer and wine list is available, so Daughtress enjoyed a glass of Italian pinot grigio while Hubs and I swigged refreshing Morettis. Prices ranged between $10 and $20 for our entrees.

After watching Mario for years on TV talking about the peasant food of Italy and the simplicity inherent in Italian cooking, I feel I was able to appreciate his philosophy first-hand.

Here's a tip if you hate crowds but still want to try the food at Eataly:  Buy a takeout panini or some fresh bread, cheese and cured meats, and head across the street to Madison Square Park.  Hubmeister and I enjoyed this nice little park after our meal.  Ahh...serenity now!

http://eatalyny.com/

Ft. Lauderdale Grub Notes

Have you noticed my absence? I have a paid writing gig that's taken me away from my Food and Loathing habit. I'll still be posting, though, because I love to throw around my opinion...

Which brings me to a couple nights I recently spent visiting the Oldsters, a.k.a. my parents, in what I like to call Ft. Liquordale. As usual, I was lax in my picture taking. I am trying to stick to the New Year's take-more-photos resolution, but we all know how that goes. So, here is a quick rundown (sans photos - sorry!) of my dining adventures in the old stomping grounds of my youth.

LaSpada's
The sign out front of this Lauderdale-by-the-Sea location indicates the owner's Philly origin, but around these parts, the subs are all homegrown. This itty-bitty place is packed on a daily basis and why is a no-brainer:  The subs are amazing.

Why anyone would order anything other than the Italian Special is beyond me, but the menu offers numerous sandwich options. The fresh-tasting bread is chewy yet soft and the cold cuts are cut to order. No pre-sliced junk here. 

As you wait in the snaking line at the counter, you will actually be treated to a slice-and-toss show the likes of which you have never seen.  One guy slices all the meats and literally throws the stack of cold cuts down the line, aiming for the roll that will house them.  I saw him land a few.  Random misses are caught by the sandwich maker and slapped into place, then topped by cheese of choice, lettuce, tomato, onions, and sweet and hot peppers, and then topped again by more meat. That added meat is a nifty way to hold everything in.  Oil, vinegar and a sprinkle of oregano dress the Italian Special, but choose mayo or mustard if you must. 

Subs come in two sizes:  6 or 12 inches. Yes, I went for the mondo size and made it through about 10 inches worth before caving.  Twelve-inchers are about $10 and worth every cent.  These subs are well-known throughout the city and for good reason. 

A word of advice:  Go a little before noon to beat the crowd and be prepared to yell your order over the hoard of bikini-clad and business-attired sub lovers. Takeout only.

http://www.laspadashoagies.com/





J. Mark's
With a couple of locations, one in Lauderdale and one in Pompano, J. Mark's is popular with the locals. The Oldsters love it because Mom can sit comfortably in a booth and order gigantic hunks of red meat that she never finishes and ultimately takes home.  Most of the time she hones in on the Fred Flintstone prime rib (which is something you don't see on a lot of menus these days -- this restaurant serves it on specific nights) but this time she went for a variation of the theme:  Prime Rib Sliders. 

Mom reads a million newspapers a day and she was well-aware that J. Mark's had just won the award for best sliders in the city, an accolade proudly proclaimed by the waitress as she nodded approvingly while taking Mom's order.  Dad, whom I believe is responsible for Sister Foodie's and my adventuresome spirits when it comes to dining (thanks to our childhood flashbacks of him devouring steak tartare and raw ground beef), ordered the Ahi Tuna appetizer for his entree.  He recommended the Ahi Tuna at J. Mark's, so that's what I got, but in entree form.

Before I get to the mains, however, I have to tell you about the weird appetizer. They were egg rolls with a Mexican twist, loaded with avocado and cilantro. The menu states the ingredients also include red onions and sun-dried tomatoes, but I don't remember them. This appetizer ($10.99), which Dad ordered for the table to share, was Mom's idea, and if you knew my mother, you'd know she would loathe this starter. She pictured traditional Chinese egg rolls.  As expected, she hated them.  Dad and I ate them but one still remained when the waitress removed the plate. Bad sign. I don't think Mexican flavors pair well with egg roll wrappers.  Perhaps this appetizer explains why you never see Mexican-Chinese fusion cuisine.

The Ahi Tuna ($24.99), on the other hand, was mouth-watering.  Prepared with a perfect sear on the outside and retaining a cool pink center, the tuna had a really flavorful, crispy-peppery crust.

Dad's tuna appetizer ($13.99) was picturesque and offered a lovely portion if you had pigged out earlier in the day on a 12-inch LaSpada's sub. His tuna was accented with wasabi pesto and the plate included pickled cucumbers and a Soba Peanut Noodle Salad.

Mom savored those award-winning sliders ($12.99) and, yes, took most of them home. Smeared with horseradish and basil pesto, they were served au jus and came with sweet potato fries. Those fries looked good to me, but Mom is a traditionalist who likes her fries white, not orange. She will remember to specify her preference for Russets next time.

With its warm, all-wood decor, ice-cold beer, and dependable food and service, J.Mark's is an understandable local favorite.

http://www.jmarksrestaurant.com/menu.html





Aruba Beach Cafe
Talk about a location! I can't believe I had never been to Aruba when the Oldsters live only a couple blocks from it. Aruba is located smack-dab on the beach beside the pier at A1A and Commercial Blvd. We had a clear view out the walls of windows of gently rolling waves and all the lively sights of Lauderdale's beach.  I highly recommend this spot for heterosexual men because the ladies out there sunbathing had spent some serious time at the gym and they were letting everybody know it. Thankfully, I was spared the stomach-churning vision of men in thongs because that would have killed my appetite.

Aruba has three massive bars inside one huge restaurant, and the joint was jumpin' as Mom, Dad, our friend The Professor, and I wove our way around the bars and through the tropical, Caribbean-themed dining rooms to our awesome table.

Mom ordered the Pulled Pork Sandwich and Dad got a Cold Seafood Platter, both specials of the day. The Professor selected the Lobster Salad Sandwich and I got a Blackened Mahi Mahi Sandwich.

Mom and Dad were very happy with their selections. Dad's plate offered crab legs, shrimp, oysters and a variety of dipping sauces. My Mahi Mahi was grilled with Cajun spices, served on a good bun and complemented by a tasty tartar sauce that I used as a dipper for my fries. Although the fries weren't homemade, their crunchy seasoned coating made them irresistible.

The least impressive dish at this oceanfront lunch fest was the Lobster Salad Sandwich. It tasted fishy, the lobster was pulverized, and it was sandwiched between three pieces of supermarket-variety whole wheat bread. The restaurant advertises this as Bimini Bread, which they say they make daily. What? I will pass. The Professor gave me half her lobster sandwich, I gave her half my fish sandwich and it's clear which dish was the winner.

Service was memorable; we had a fun older waitress who constantly brought me fresh cups of coffee. She clearly enjoyed her job, and that enthusiasm is seldom seen in restaurants these days -- at least in my travels.

Sister Foodie says the food at Aruba has always been mediocre. Considering this city's endless dining choices, I don't think I would invest in dinner at Aruba, but lunch and/or drinks are worth it just for the atmosphere. 

Oh, and if you were there during my visit, you would have seen my mother trying to pocket the coffee creamers. Dad pulled her away from the table just in the knick of time. She has lived in South Florida far too long.

http://www.arubabeachcafe.com/home.htm

Weighing in on "Top Chef Masters"

If you've been watching "Top Chef Masters," you recently saw Chef Hugh Acheson voted off.  Actually, it was the second time this season he got the boot.  In a strange turn of events, one of the other chefs dropped out of the competition and Chef Hugh returned to redeem himself from the mortal sin of oversalting.  He was doing pretty well until he committed another whopper in "chefdom" -- a broken mayonnaise.   Although Chef Hugh disputed the criticism, he was given the "pack your knives and go" directive. 

It's too bad the chef never got to make Frogmore Stew or the pumpkin dessert that Son of Hubmeister and I fought over at his Athens, Ga., restaurant.    

I warmed to Acheson as I watched this season unfold and he revealed with each episode more of his quirky personality. His dry sense of humor brought some levity to an otherwise boring group of chefs.  His recent sarcastic exchanges with the scientist on the science education challenge were especially entertaining. 

If you read my post about his award-winning restaurant, Five & Ten (http://foodandloathingintampabay.blogspot.com/2010/10/eating-up-athens-five-ten.html), you'll now understand that placing that Chaines des Rotisseurs membership certificate near a toilet doesn't seem that out of character.  I suspected an off-the-wall sense of humor.  Sorry to see him go. 

Here's a link to an Atlanta Journal-Constitution interview with him about the show:    http://blogs.ajc.com/food-and-more/2011/06/08/catching-up-with-hugh-acheson/  If you read the comments section, you'll see that not everyone shares my humble opinion.  What do you think?

Takin' It to the Ybor Streets: The Bricks

Daughtress was in town last week, which meant a trip to Ybor.  As luck would have it, the Ybor location of Urban Outfitters was closing and having a message-all-your-friends-on-Facebook-worthy sale.  Her timing was impeccable.  I knew she'd approve of The Bricks, so that's where we headed for a post-shopping lunch.

I really like The Bricks and she did, too.  On the road to AARP membership before I can slam on the brakes, I realize that I am not the intended audience for this trendy college-type hangout, but I am inexplicably drawn to its youthful vitality.  The tatted-up, weirdly pierced servers and their crazy hairstyles amuse me while I marvel at the colorful artwork (for sale) gracing the walls.  I don't understand any of it, but I get a kick out of it.  I also appreciate the year-round display of Halloween props and how the staff decorates the vampire and skeleton mascots according to the season.   Humor is good.

That could be why this was my second lunch outing at The Bricks.  Hubs and I tried it a few months back.  He wasn't thrilled, since he's more of a Tampa Bay Brewing Company kind of guy.  That's not to say The Bricks doesn't have beer.  This place morphs into a bar scene at night.  But before the vampires and Ybor City night stalkers come out, it's a coffee shop, breakfast and lunch venue that occupies a red-bricked corner space on the west end of East 7th Avenue. 

Passing on the peanut butter and jelly offerings for which they are known, I opted for the Blackstar Bean Burger ($9) and Asian slaw.  On first bite, the burger was less than exciting, but once I got going on it, it really hit the spot.  The bean patty was topped with smoked mozzarella, spinach, tomato, red onion and ketchup.  The amped-up ketchup imparted a sweet heat and played nicely with the other elements.  The more I ate, the more the heat came through. You've really got to pump up the flavors to electrify vegetarian dishes and The Bricks did an admirable job with this beaner. 

The slaw was particularly memorable -- in a good way.  As I contemplate the dressing ingredients, I venture a guess that a splash of sesame oil is one of the key components, along with vinegar, of course.  The no-mayo-added slaw consisted of shredded carrot and red and green cabbage, all of which were fresh, crunchy and infused with Asian flavors.  It was delicious on both visits. 

Daughtress ordered the Bird and Pig ($9), a combination of roasted chicken, bacon, brie, sliced apple and agave nectar on pressed Hawaiian bread.  You've never had agave nectar on a sandwich before?  Me, neither. The Bricks gets a hat tip for innovation.  There is some smart stuff going on here:   Notice the sweet and salty balance -- in addition to the alternating textures -- of ingredients.  The apples were tart and crunchy, the brie soft and oozing, the bacon salty, the nectar honey-ish and the sweet bread pressed to a warm crisp.  All that adds up to an intriguing and tasty chicken sandwich.  We all know how boring chicken breast can be and this was far from bland.  Hubmeister happened to order this sandwich on his visit and he also sang its praises.  He likes that Hawaiian bread!

From the available sides of potato salad, mixed greens, slaw or tortilla chips, Daughtress also selected the Asian slaw.  It made the cut with her, too.   We also loved the peach ginger iced tea.

We had a couple of servers, and both were efficient, friendly and stylistically unique.  (Insert smile here.)

I am happy that Ybor City is emerging as a restaurant hotbed because this little corner of Spanish-Cuban-Italian history is by far my favorite slice of Tampa.

Maybe the old spirits of Cigar City are inspiring The Bricks' mad scientists.  It's clear they aren't afraid to experiment with their food and I am more than willing to visit their laid-back lab de cuisine.   Where else in Tampa can you find "The Amsterdam, " a sandwich of peanut butter and melted smoked Gouda on a baguette?

Verdict:  Fun choice for the open-minded hipster, oops, I mean diner.

Restaurant Info:
The Bricks
http://www.facebook.com/thebricksybor

Pucker Up for Pickles

I just noticed that I've recently had a flurry of activity on my "In a Pickle Over Pickles" post from last year (http://foodandloathingintampabay.blogspot.com/2010/08/pickle-post.html) , and I realized that I never told you how they turned out.  Well, the most critical people I know, and probably the most critical people most of us know -- our own extended families -- said they were awesome!  Yup, they want more.  No one could be more surprised than I.

So, when you see those kirby cukes, buy them up and make a batch of pickles.  I also can't say enough about the pickyourown.org website.  Everybody loves the jams (in addition to the pickles) that I have made off of this website, and believe me, I am no canning expert. 

And, on the subject of canning, heads up on the $1.39/pint blueberries at Aldi this week.  Get them while you can.  You know what I'll be doing this weekend.  

Sampling Tampa Thai: Sukhothai

During the last four years in Tampa, I have dined at more than a half-dozen Thai restaurants and one Asian restaurant claiming to serve Thai specialties.  More sampling is on the horizon but I am getting antsy.  None can compare to our favorite restaurant in Peachtree City, Ga.:  Thai Spice. 

Now, Peachtree City is just about the most ideal place you could raise a family or retire but it has a few - mind you, just a few - drawbacks, one being a lack of good restaurants (another is the 45-minute commute to Atlanta).   But it did have at least one reliable dining establishment in the always tasteful, sophisticated and satisfying Thai Spice.

Where, oh where is my Thai Spice in Tampa?  I am still searching for something other than an Epcot version of Thailand - restaurants brandishing gilded Buddhas and ornate decor.  Just give me that runny-nose-inducing, wickedly spicy Thai food, serve it carefully plated in a serene, white-tablecloth setting and play contemporary, easy-listening music softly in the background.  Throw in some decent service, an icy cold Singha, and ta-da! 

Easier said than done, I guess.

In the food realm, my demands were met a couple weekends ago when I convinced Hubmeister to give Sukhothai another shot.  It's the first time in Tampa that the spice level has been exactly as I ordered, a tongue-tingling medium to hot.  Judging a person's tolerance or craving for heat is a daunting task, since a little bit of this or not enough of that can screw up the guest's whole experience of a dish.  That's what happened to Hubmeister, but I'll get to that. 

Let's talk about the Chicken Massaman ($12.99), the best bay-area Thai dish that I've had to date.  It featured a nice ratio of sliced chicken to mixed vegetables cradled in an addictive coconut cream and curry peanut sauce, a pretty straightforward curry creation.   Richly flavored, this dish was seasoned well and cooked properly.  Its sidekick was brown or white rice (I chose brown), which I used to absorb every last bit of that fabulous creamy sauce.

Poor Hubs!  His bland-loving taste sensors went berserk when his Chicken Pad Thai ($12.50) arrived.   Although I couldn't detect any heat, he swears this classic Thai noodle dish was too spicy for him.  He ordered it mild and left most of it on his plate; I relished the "peanutty" leftovers the next day.  Is there a hold-the-spice order at a Thai restaurant?  I have a feeling you get laughed out of the kitchen with that one.

Backtracking to the beginning of the meal, we started with Thai Spring Rolls ($3.99).  They were huge, burrito-sized beauties accompanied by a sweet dipping sauce.  The dipping sauce didn't live up to the sweet-hot Thai Spice standard but the veggie-stuffed rolls were crispy and impressive.

So, the food - at least for me - hit most of the right notes. 

Here's the rub:  we hated the atmosphere.  Once you find the restaurant in its off-the-beaten-path, behind-a-shopping-center location, you may choose seating at the sushi bar or a standard table, or you can sit Japanese-style on the floor.  Both times we've dined here we have opted for a table, but the floor seating area, which is isolated from the kitchen and sushi bar, seems like it might be more quiet and relaxing.  Hubs isn't one who likes to sit on the floor.  The tables with chairs are directly opposite the sushi bar and its television - I am starting to hate televisions in restaurants - and you hear every conversation nearby.  (Excuse me, my New York friends, I don't care to hear your loud stories about life on Long Island.  If I want to hear about Long Island, I can ask Hubs and he prefers to black it out.)   Maybe they should crank up the music in this place.  It also felt a bit claustrophobic, as our server snaked awkwardly around tables.  

The food may have surpassed other Tampa Thai cuisine, but the plating was average.  Don't expect orchids or beautifully placed edible flowers.  Although I appreciated the absence of brassy accents, the noisy environment could use some window dressing.   

I noticed lots of takeout orders awaiting pickup at the register and that's how I plan to get my future Sukhothai meals, at least at this location.  I have yet to try the Sukhothai on Dale Mabry.  Stay tuned.

Verdict:  Hits the mark for food but misses on atmosphere.

Restaurant Info:
Sukhothai
http://www.sukhothairestaurant.net/files/color-menu.pdf

Sumatra: A Brandon Bistro?

Sorry for the question, but we spent five months in Brandon when we first landed in this part of the state in 1990, and the most sophisticated eatery there was Olive Garden.  While the town is still a chain-lover's dream, a smattering of independent restaurateurs is attempting to break new ground.

A case in point is Sumatra Bistro Cafe & Bakery, which occupies a corner space of a building located east of Lakewood Drive, off Oakfield Drive.  Once I found the place, which, approaching from the west, has terrible visibility and a dysfunctional parking lot, I joined the Mississippi Maven at an outside table on a spiffy spring day. 



Sumatra's patio is a plus, but server access was a problem during our visit.


Although I have my share of beefs with Brandon, this sprawling bedroom community has managed to retain a vestige of small-town folksiness, and we were greeted with enthusiastic hellos and a smiling staff.  The level of professionalism ended there, however, as I received the wrong meal and servers busing open-air tables tried futilely to enter the restaurant bearing armloads of dishes.  Patio diners politely offered to open the door for the plate jugglers - which begs the question, why not prop open the door?   I could take a trip down Snarky Lane, but I'll forge ahead to the food.

Reminiscent of Season's Fresh (see recent post), Sumatra is following an emerging trend:  a focus on fresh, organic and locally grown ingredients featured in salads, paninis, wraps and sandwiches.  Gourmet coffee, tea, and baked goods complete the cafe-bistro profile. 

Since the Trib gave Sumatra an enthusiastic review, I guess I expected more substance and creativity.  I ordered a cup of Tomato Basil Bisque and an Eggplant and Mozzarella Sandwich. What I mistakenly received was hard-boiled egg and cucumber served on a Pepperidge Farm deli flat.  Rather than remove the dish and correct the order, the server said the chef must have misunderstood her "egg" instructions.  I didn't want to hold up the Maven's meal by requesting a new sandwich, so I simply ate what was before me, which certainly was no guilty pleasure.  In fact, it was quite diet-friendly.

Weight watchers, rejoice!

Deli flat.  Cucumber.  Egg.  Need I say more?  The high note was the fresh-tasting soup, rich with tomato and nicely infused with basil.   I would also recommend the coffee, which the server said was - you guessed it - Sumatran. 

The Maven had a Chicken Caesar Wrap, which she uncharacteristically remained mum about throughout the meal.  Both entrees were accompanied by a handful of mixed greens, some carrot shavings, a few cheese crumbles and a side of ordinary house vinaigrette. 

The word verdant comes to mind.

When I asked her in the parking lot what she thought of the place, the Maven shrugged and said we've had better lunches.  She's right.  We both could have made any of this stuff at home.

Sumatra Bistro serves breakfast and lunch, and stocks a bakery case full of treats.  The hours posted on the website vary depending on the day, so consult before you go. 

Verdict:  So-so bistro.

Restaurant Info:
Sumatra Bistro Cafe and Bakery
1602 Oakfield Drive
Brandon
813-655-6200
http://www.sumatrabistro.com/menu/